• Best Zoo: Zoologischer Garten Basel. See the gorilla house.

• Best Hotel Discount Program: Entertainment Europe (800-445-3137). For $43 you get 50% off at some 700 European hotels. Admittedly, many are plastic and charmless but last June one of our editors stayed at the Hotel Gellert in Budapest for $99 per night.

• Best Short Boat Ride: Heidelberg to Neckarsteinach and return, 90 minutes, 15.5 DM ($11). A pretty and relaxing trip.

• Best Chocolate Factory: Maier at 60 rue Louis-de-Savoie in Morges, Switzerland. Arrange a tour at tourist office across the street.

• Best Cheap Swiss Meal: Rösti (fried potatoes) with wild mushrooms at Café du Vieil-Ouchy in Lausanne; 20 Sfr. ($17). This is a tiny hole-in-the-wall but the simple food is well prepared.

December 1995