Hotel recommendations in the Harz Mountains, near Berchtesgaden, Zürich airport and Cesky Krumloz; an Interlaken restaurant and trouble in GAP.
Harz Mountain Hotel
As part of our recent participation on the IRT Railfans Tour of Germany, we spent four nights in Wernigerode. This charming village complete with its huge castle is located in what was East Germany about two hours south-southwest of Berlin. The Hotel Gothisches Haus (Markt 1, 38841 Wernigerode, tel: +49/03943/6750; fax 34559) is a real treasure. It has just been reopened after undergoing a complete restoration plus a highly compatible addition. It rates five stars in my book. The town is really neat and of course there is the steam train attraction. They have 15 operational engines. It's quite a destination for those so inclined.
The rail trip tour was great fun although a bit arduous. We traveled on over 50 trains, trams, streetcars and related rail vehicles in 15 days. Daily temperatures in the mid 90s with equal humidity coupled with several un-air-conditioned hotels was a challenge at times.
Hamp & Sue Miller,
San Luis Obispo, CA
Hotel Near Berchtesgaden
I wanted to tell you about a hotel near the German-Austrian border, near Berchtesgaden, that I make sure I stay in on every trip to Bavaria, ever since I sort of stumbled into it 4-5 years ago. Hotel Neuhäusl (tel. +49/08652/9400, email: neuhaeusl@berchtesgaden) is simply my favorite place to stay in Germany. Consistently excellent service, big rooms, with balconies looking out on an immense forest, off-the-chart nice folks, and very good Bavarian food. Birgit Rauh and family are terrific innkeepers and always make my time there a very pleasant experience.
I also went to see the exhibit of the 5300 year-old Iceman in Bolzono, Italy, about 90 minutes drive from Innsbruck. It was very cool and worth the trip.
Roger Brown
Via e-mail
Fine Hotel Near Zürich Airport
In early June we spent another night at the Rote Rose near the Zürich Airport in Regensberg, and continue to believe it is one of the most charming inns we've encountered in over 35 trips to Europe. Having stayed in the full suite for two nights last September, which would now be about $325 per night, and with only one night this trip, we opted for a junior suite at CHF 270 ($199). Marvelous!
Many of the furnishings were included in the building's purchase and are classic antiques. On the other hand, the bathrooms are very modern and high tech, but equally tastefully done. A small pool has been completed in a park-like setting on the backside of the property, with views for many miles. We sat there for over an hour observing three hawks circling over the roof tops, coming at times within 30 feet of us.
The Schafer family is extremely friendly and helpful, it's just like visiting relatives. It is difficult to see how they can generate enough income from the handful of rooms to cover the considerable sums they've obviously spent in making Rote Rose a very, very unique upscale hostelry, but my sense is that to a certain degree this has been a labor of love more than an economic venture.
Bill Bohnhoff
Santa Fe, NM
Interlaken Restaurant
I greatly enjoyed the latest issue, especially the comments about Chalet du Lac. It's certainly one of the hidden gems. The view of Iseltwald's harbor is especially nice from the Chalet's breakfast room, a particularly pleasant way to start the day. Our latest visit was just about this time of year, which is when Iseltwald holds its summer concerts in a tent a few minutes walk from the center of the village. When we arrived, we knew nothing about the concerts, but after the local band marched under our terrace, it didn't take long to figure out that even this sleepy little village has its own summer entertainment. We went over to the tent, enjoyed the concert, and took advantage of the light foods available on the premises.
We also enjoyed a meal at the Chalet du Lac's Stube and would have done so again had it not been for our wanderlust and curiosity about restaurants in the region. The standout in Interlaken was at Stellambiente (Hotel Stella, tel. +41/0338/233075, e-mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.), where we had the unexpected pleasure of a few songs from the local yodeling society which was meeting (and eating) there.
Russell Wayne
Via e-mail
Cesky Krumlov
We recently were in Cesky Krumlov, a favorite destination of ours and one we have visited several times since the early '90s.
Upon our return to the U.S. we read your story about it in Gemütlichkeit (June 2002) and would like to confirm that it is a wonderful place. The castle guided tour is a must.
One warning: we did stay at the Old Inn and it was very nice. The food was good and reasonably priced and our room was pleasant. It faced the old-town square and provided a great view, however, the noise from several discos, well into the early morning hours, was a real nuisance. For those wishing to get to sleep a little earlier, perhaps a room to the back of the Inn might be better.
When returning to Frankfurt, we took your advice and stayed at the Hotel Anker (tel. +49/09391/60040, email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.) in Marktheidenfeld. We can surely agree that it is a very nice place and that the staff is very friendly and helpful. The breakfast was outstanding!
Pat Borden
Via e-mail
Trouble in GAP
In April, I reserved rooms at the Hotel Reindl's Partenkirchner Hof in Garmisch-Partenkirchen. They requested a credit card guarantee, and I received a final confirmation for two rooms for one night. After driving from Zürich we arrived in the early afternoon. However, the rooms were not available because some other guests did not leave on the set date. We were offered reservations at another place, but believe me, not even horses or cows would stay there. Finally with the help of a gentlemen in Partenkirchen we found two nice rooms at the Mercure (Mittenwalder Str. 2, tel. +49/08821/7560, e-mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.). I think that you as a serious journal should look into this matter and take some action.
Ernesto Muller
Via e-mail
(Ed Note: A troubling story. We have forwarded your email to the hotel in question.)
August 2003
