Hotel and restaurant recommendations in Berlin and Regensburg; Burgenland's Jewish Museum; Inexpensive castle hotel north of Würzburg; Hotels in Nürnberg.
Interesting Bar in Berlin
Thanks for an excellent June issue, especially the article about Regensburg, one of my favorite cities. I visited it last summer (my third visit), stayed at the Bischofshof, (Krauterer Markt 3, D-93047 Regensburg, tel. +49/(0)941/ 58460, fax 5846146) had lunch at the Wurstküche, and thoroughly enjoyed my stay. You didn't mention that Regensburg is the home of one of the world's finest boys choirs, the Domspatzen, who can be heard almost every Sunday at the cathedral as well as at numerous concerts. I heard them twice last summer and have bought their records for years. The choir traces its origin back over 1000 years. I also visited a local fair or festival in the park across the Danube, on an island spanned by the stone bridge (one of the engineering marvels of the Middle Ages). There was music, food, and exhibits, with an overall theme of protecting the environment.
In Berlin, on the same trip, I stayed at the Albrechtshof Hotel, (Albrechtstrasse 8, D-10117 Berlin, tel. +49/030/8860, fax 886100) north of the Spree, just across from the Friedrichstrasse station. A short walk from the hotel is a pub called Ständige Vertretung, which is a favorite of government workers and features a mix of Rhineland and Berlin food and drink. The story I got is that the proprietor formerly owned a pub in Bonn which was frequented by government people, and when the government moved to Berlin, he moved too. To satisfy the nostalgia of transplanted Rhinelanders, he features some of their specialties, e.g. Kölsch (Cologne) beer. The walls are covered with photographs, banners, campaign posters, etc. that practically trace a history of postwar German politics. The atmosphere alone (although a bit smoky) was worth the wait to get seated.
Jewish Museum in Burgenland
I was surprised to find your feature on the Burgenland (Mar. 01) failed to mention the Austrian Jewish Museum. Located just a few yards from the Esterhazy Palace, it was once the residence of Samson Wertheimer (1658-1724). The Esterhazy's had a very enlightened attitude, which caused numerous Jewish families to settle in and around Eisenstadt. Wertheimer became the Chief Rabbi for the entire province, and the ancestor of several prominent Austrian families. The museum includes Wertheimer's private synagogue, as well as portraits and documents relating to the history of Jews in Austria.
A Castle in Franconia
In May we were at Schloss Saaleck, Hammelburg, Germany, 57 km north of Würzburg, for a one-night stay and wish now we had allowed more time for it.
Situated high on a hill above the town, the castle is reached by a one-lane, winding road (no guard rails). Such was the ambiance that one expected to hear the clanking of knights armor and see them riding across the moat bridge.
We were given Room #10 which was in the tower and had glorious windows on three sides, which gave fantastic views of the town and countryside.
There is a restaurant for dinner, as well as breakfast. The food was excellent and well prepared. If one is looking for lots of people, this is not the place. We felt as though we were in a friends home, creaking floors and all.
We heartily recommend Schloss Saaleck for an out-of-the-way stay. The address is Saaleckstrasse 1, Hammelburg, Germany. The price for the room for one night, including breakfast, was 180 DM ($79), which we found very reasonable.
We enjoy reading Gemütlichkeit very much, keep up the good work.
Francis L. & Virginia Johnson
Nürnberg, Berlin Report
In Nürnberg I stayed at the four star Dürer-Hotel (Neutormauer 32, tel. +49/0911/208091, fax 223458) near the Albrecht Dürer House in the middle of the old town. It was OK but not worthy of four stars. Should I return I would opt for the three-star Hotel Agneshof (Agnesgasse 10, tel. +49/0911/214440, fax 214 44 144) nearby. The old area is extensive and very picturesque and the town seems to be geared for tourists with lots of options. It is also known for its Christmas Market.
And then there was Berlin. Ah, Berlin. I stayed at the Hotel Art Nouveau (Leibnizstrasse 59, tel. +49/030 32 77 440, fax 327 744 40) and enjoyed Gerd and Christine immensely. It's a great place and I recommend it. I followed some of your recommendations to the letter including eating at Spree Athen (Leibnizstrasse 60, tel. +49/030/324-1733) and Rogacki (Wilmersdorfer Str. 145) which I enjoyed very much. Sad to report that the light has been extinguished at Ewige Lampe. However, the sounds are blowing as brightly as ever at the A-Trane (Bleibtreustrasse 1, tel. +49/030 / 313 25 50). I really didn't stray out of the neighborhood for dinner and was recommended to eat at Lutter & Wegner (Schlüterstr. 55, tel. +49/030/881 34 40) by another Art Nouveau client. I was not disappointed. Although I had visited Berlin twice before on day trips, I was not prepared for all that the city offers. I even trekked out to Oranienburg to see the vestiges of the former Sachsenshausen Concentration Camp - eerie. One of my regrets is not visiting the used "everything market" held weekends near the Tiergarten S-Bahn stop. Christine told me about it on Monday when I described what I thought I saw from the S-Bahn. Oh well, an excuse for a next time soon.