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By Mark Honan

Favorably reviewed in the February 1999 issue of Gemütlichkeit, the Auerhahn has lost none of its ability to seduce the palate. What's new, though, is the 2003 extension to the original wood-beamed room. It's a more modern space, with generous gaps between tables, a fireplace, soft candlelight, and almost garish head portraits in the Warhol-on-Marilyn mould. Traditional Austrian main courses start at €11.50. The Schaumsuppe featured rich slices of tender duck breast (€5.20). Fish is highly rated here, so I tried the Bunter Fischteller €21), a selection of choice seafood served with a leek risotto. I particularly enjoyed the mussels with a subtle cheesy sauce served in a scallop shell, and the oriental tang in the accompanying sliced vegetables. A dessert speciality is Topfenknödel (€3), a light, warmed dumpling made from curd cheese, which was nicely offset by the cool, slightly sharp cranberry puree.

Contact: Bahnhofstrasse 15, 5020, tel. +43/662/4510523. Kitchen open 11:30am-2pm & 6pm-10pm Tues.-Sun. afternoon; closed Sunday evening and Mon.
Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 13/20