Probably the best restaurant in the Savignyplatz neighborhood. A bit yuppie, a bit smoky, and a bit cramped, a "scene" in other words. Service is accommodating but what comes on the plate is the real attraction. Dishes sound traditional but are done in the lighter style of the "new" German cuisine. Here's a rundown on a recent dinner there.

A meal's quality is often foretold by its salad and Florian's, with crisp rucola leaves coated with a wonderfully smoky dressing and topped with Parmesan shavings, promised great things to come.

We weren't disappointed. Ochsenbrust (about $17) turned out to be a heap of the tenderest, most flavorful slices of boiled beef we've ever had. Of course, there was a rugged, homemade horseradish and an accompanying sauté of vegetables had just the right touch of buttery sweetness.

A rich Sauerbraten (about $15) was nearly the equal of the Ochsenbrust. The homemade Spätzle served with it was about as good as the dish gets and the breaded cauliflower was faultless.

The restaurant's interior is a series of fairly small rooms with plain white walls and hardwood floors. In summer, you can dine outside.

Clientèle is an interesting mix of locals from the neighborhood, artists, actors and Berlin yuppies. Fine people watching. After 11pm try the bratwurst and sauerkraut. This is a popular place, so reserve ahead. On warm summer days you'll want to be outside.

Reserve prior to your Berlin arrival via the restaurant’s Website. No credit cards. Florian, Grolmanstraße 52, D-10623 Berlin, tel. 030/ 313 91 84, $$