Specialty shops, department stores, and the flashy Wöhrl Plaza urban mall line Altstadt's Prager Strasse pedestrian corridor. You'll find leather goods and clothing retailers-plus Café Mobilius-in Kleine Brüdergasse's Haus am Zwinger. Kreutzkamm, a much older Kölnditorei café/bakery, has been in several Altmarkt locations since 1825.

Browse in Neustadt's pricey art galleries on Königstrasse and stores along parallel Hauptstrasse, where Kunst und Handwerk Etzol displays such traditional Erzegerbirge Christmastime charmers as candle-powered windmill pyramids and Rauchermännchen (smoking men) characters. Handicraft shops and artsy studios intermingle with taverns inside Görlitz Strasse's Kunsthof-Passage. You can nosh on famed Dresdner Stollen while seated amidst the baked-goods, grocery, and wine-shop cubbyholes in circa-1886 Neustädter Markthalle (Metzer Strasse and Ritterstrasse entrances).