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At 124.7 km you should be on a narrow road with no centerline headed toward Altenmarkt, and at 130.6 km is highway #304 where you'll turn right. There is no sign. Cross the Alz River and note the falls on the left. At 131.1 km go left toward Trostberg. Check the map and make sure to take the road from Trostberg northeast through Kirchweidach. We made the right turn at 135.4 km and began to see signs to our destination, Burghausen.

Those who fancy putting a standard-shift European car through its paces on a quiet German country road will be right at home here. This smooth route twists, turns and dips its way through high meadows with distant views and past large, prosperous-looking farms.

At 161.1 km, enter Burghausen. Ignore the rather unattractive, commercial part of town and follow the Stadtmitte or Burg signs. Michelin gives Burghausen two stars (worth a detour) and another two stars to its castle.

The fortress, which seems to run forever along a bluff overlooking the Salzach, guards the border to Austria. Below it, by the river, is an attractive old town of three and four-story pastel houses placed along the contour of the street. Though the Green Guide says to walk up to the castle, there is an upper parking lot that will save climbing. Here's more information.

To return to Bad Reichenhall, drive southwest out of town along the Salzach toward Freilassing. Those with enough time and energy can visit Tittmoning, another medieval town with a fortress similar to Burghausen's. If you have had enough, continue along this red road, number 20, to Freilassing and straight on to Bad Reichenhall.

For a little more of the countryside, turn right off this road at Laufen and follow signs to Teisendorf. From there look for signs to Anger and Piding. Just before Anger is a high place with a wonderful view of open pastures and the mountains across the valley with Klosterburg St Peter and Paul nestled between.