Wednesday: Landhaus Tanner, Waging am See
Again using Michelin, we ferreted out another "double-Bibber," this one in the town of Waging am See- the "See" being the Chiemsee, east and a little south of Munich. We dawdled along backroads and took five hours from Bad Wurzach instead of the three it would have had we used the Autobahn.
Unmistakably Bavarian, the Landhaus Tanner sits in a meadow on the edge of town and, at three stories tall, looks bigger than its seven guestrooms would suggest. The welcome was warm and we were soon ensconced in a lovely corner room (Number Seven) with slanting beamed ceilings, blonde wood trim, and separate sitting area with couch and easy chair upholstered in bright, primary colors. There is a balcony and a large, well-lit, all-tile bathroom featuring a spacious, glassed-in shower. Some hotels would call this a junior suite and at $88 it's a great bargain.
The high-ceilinged dining room glows with modern Bavarian charm. There are plank floors, light wood paneling, banquets lined with checkerboard padding and pillows, and the usual country knickknacks. Franz Tanner, the young chef-major domo, is apparently building a following. Nearly every table was occupied on this Wednesday night, mostly by a stylish under-50 crowd.
Though the food fell short of the previous night's creative excellence, dinner was a pleasant and satisfying experience. The dishes were straightforward and familiar but well prepared. Rich, buttery calves liver (E16) served over chard, with bite-size chunks of sautéed leeks and au gratin potatoes, and first-rate rack of medium-rare, herb-crusted lamb ($24) were all stellar. Without beverages (two of which were big glasses of a wonderfully intense Spätburgunder, $7.2) the dinner came to $53, making our room, dinner, breakfast total about $190. Breakfast, by the way, was a superb layout that included eggs to order.
We put Landhaus Tanner in the "find" category. It is suitable for longer stays and would make a convenient and comfortable east Bavarian headquarters. Waging is directly on the Chiemsee. Salzburg, Berchtesgaden and Bad Reichenhall are all within a 40 minute drive, as are a dozen golf courses. Munich is less than two hours by rail, and Salzburg about 50 minutes, both via Traunstein.
- Daily Rates: Singles $65-75, doubles $85-95, apartments (breakfast not included) $78-93
- Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 18/20
- Restaurant: Quality 15/20, Value 16/20