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A la carte dining is also possible. Six Sylt oysters cost €18, a grilled lobster claw with a piquant, tomato sauce over couscous is €34, and venison filet á la Rössini, topped with silky goose liver and an earthy truffle-based sauce, is €42. Entrecôte of Australian Wagyu beef (similar to Kobe beef) for two is €52 per person.

Space does not permit a description of our long evening of superb dining, but among the most notable in a series of taste explosions included: three pink veal slices in a parsley butter sauce over bite-size onion ravioli, all scattered with freshly sautéed pfefferlingen (mushrooms); a perfect, shell-less lobster claw glistening in butter; a lamb dish with four different cuts of meat including a chop with a silver handle attached to the bone; corn and ginger ice cream; and, at the start of the meal, a kitchen surprise of a dozen tiny pastry cones with various fillings of cheeses, chopped olives, bits of sauced fish and vegetables, all exquisitely taste intensive.

Dinner at Söl'ring is one of the two best meals (the other being L'Ermitage at Vufflen-Le-Château) in the now 19-year history of Gemütlichkeit. It's easy for a couple to spend $250-plus on dinner-without beverages.

Contact: Sölring Hof Sylt, Am Strandwall 1, 25980 Rantum/Sylt, tel, +49/4651/836 200, fax: 836 2020, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Rating: Quality 19/20, Value N/A