This traditional Styrian Beisl has been situated in the busy pedestrian square in the center of Graz since 1660. Its popularity suggests it's a good bet to continue in the same vein for many years to come. Housed in an elegant ochre building complete with stucco façade, the interior is somewhat more relaxed and egalitarian than one might expect. Come here for local color and ambiance rather than for out and out comfort. Tables can be cramped inside, though there's plenty of room outdoors to stretch your legs amid the hustle and bustle of the plaza. Protected beneath large umbrella canopies and bordered by potted shrubs, these open-air tables are ideal for people-watching.

The food includes standard Austrian fare such as succulent Schnitzels (€7.20 to €10.80), though I usually go for one of the dishes served in a sizzling hot pan (pfandl). The Steirerpfandl is a tasty and filling combination of minced meat, Spätzle, potatoes, melted cheese and mushroom sauce. As suggested by its name, wine should be your beverage of choice. There's a selection of local and regional wines to choose from for starting about about €3.5 per glass.

Contact: Gamlitzer Weinstube Mehlplatz 4, Graz, A-8010, tel. +43/0316/828760, fax 832544, email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Open 9am to 11pm Mon.-Fri. (closed weekends and holidays)

Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 16/20