This small restaurant, squirreled away on a little cobblestone street below the cathedral, offers an interesting mix of Gasthaus food and haut cuisine. It consists of two cozy, rustically decorated rooms, both of which require reservations.

A rich, Schilcher cream soup - named for the ruby red, slightly sour wine that comes from western Styria - was followed by seared veal, eye-catchingly arranged above a mild saffron sauce and snow peas. But the evening's best dish was light, tender spinach dumplings, deliciously enhanced by a brown butter sauce and Parmesan shavings.

Service was mixed. Our waiter was confused that I could speak German and my companion couldn't, and so just stopped speaking to us altogether.

At Stainzerbauer we recommend the homey, traditional dishes; the more expensive menu items were nicely presented but not worth the extra expense.

Contact: Stainzerbauer, Bürgergasse 4, A-8010 Graz, tel +43/0316/82 11 06, email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 12/20