For a platterful of traditional charm, a fair measure of character, and a touch of romance, this long-established restaurant can't be beat. Diners enjoy the personal ministrations of husband and wife team Doris and Günther Huber. The interior is formal yet welcoming. Clients can gaze at historic murals, coats of arms, and floral displays in wall alcoves, all the while being soothed by background classical music. Nevertheless, on a sunny summers day you might prefer to take to the outside, where tables overlook the splendid proportions of the adjacent 400-year-old arcaded courtyard.

The food comprises mostly regional and national dishes, reliably cooked and presented with care. Kürbiscremesuppe (€4), a vegetable soup lightened with green pumpkin seed oil, arrives with a hunk of delicious farmhouse bread. Though Tafelspitz is usually associated with Vienna, its excellent here. The beef, from Styrian cows, is lean and tender, and apple horseradish sauce provides the perfect accompaniment. The wine list strongly showcases Styrian vintners, and most vintages can be ordered by the glass.

Contact: Landhaus-Keller, Schmiedgasse 9, 8010 Graz, tel. +43/0316/830276, fax 830276-6, email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it., Web: landhaus-keller.at/. Open 11:30am to midnight Monday through Saturday, 11:30am to 3pm Sunday; closed holidays and the 1st through the 6th of January.

Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20