This beer garden-restaurant is tucked inside a courtyard up a long pedestrian alley, on the ground floor of an ancient building. Here one finds plain wooden tables, unpretentious but prompt service and large portions of meat and cheese dishes, reasonably priced.

A large slab of rather bland cordon bleu was greatly improved by a squeeze of lemon juice. The "mixed salad" consisted of marinated cabbage and vegetables. For dessert, a local cheese called Schlierbacher, served with whole wheat bread, strong and pleasant, somewhat salty, with a Camembert-like taste. With two glasses of local red wine, the bill for one came to less than $30.

Contact: Krebsenkeller, Sackstrasse 12, A-8010 Graz, tel. +43/0316/82 93 77-0.