This venerable, moderately-priced Munich restaurant, the city's oldest wine tavern, dates to the 15th century and is located a short walk from the Karlsplatz S-Bahn station and about 10 minutes from the Marienplatz.

The front door leads to a small entry and bar area which adjoins atmospheric dining rooms flanking it on both sides. The building is a WWII survivor, ceilings are vaulted, waiters wear white coats, and tables are elegantly set with white cloths and napkins, candles, fresh flowers and a multitude of silver and glassware.

We were seated in the room to the left at a table for four, though there were only two of us. Service was quick and friendly and we chose from a menu of mostly traditional Bavarian dishes.

Carpaccio Rind (beef) which we selected to lead off consisted of the usual thin shavings of virtually raw beef embellished with a variety of fresh salad greens, crispy Parmesan slivers and a piquant creamy, cheesy dressing. It was the best dish of the night.

Roast breast of duck was tender, tasty and not too oily, but accompanying vegetables were dull and overcooked. Another main dish, the ubiquitous Tafelspitz (boiled beef) was a little cardboardy but the Rösti-style fried potatoes and broccoli au gratin that accompanied it were excellent.

Weinhaus Neuner is recommended for its atmosphere, charm and service but we would be more enthusiastic if the food were a bit more consistent.

Weinhaus Neuner, Herzogspitalstraße 8, D-80331 Munich, tel. +49/089/2603954

Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 12/20