The Schlair's well-maintained baroque-style main building is in the center of Kremsmünster, while its guesthouse, Zur Alten Mühle (the Old Mill), is just a few blocks away, literally in the shadow of the Abbey. The main building's public rooms feature vaulted ceilings, tiled floors, heavy wood beams, an inviting salon with oversize leather furniture, a cozy bar with blazing hearth, and wireless Internet access. Guestrooms have been remodeled in a bright, modern style with recessed lighting and such amenities as cable TV with English channels and high-speed Internet connections. Good value at €86 double.

Breakfast is served in the adjoining Schlair family bakery, center of village social life for nearly 200 years, and whose wondrous pastries affirm Austria's reputation for baked goods. The guesthouse is the town's oldest (13th century) structure and offers a handful of vacation apartments. Each is done in a traditional style with wood-trimmed furniture and herringbone hardwood floors. Other amenities include satellite TV, direct dial phones, and small kitchens suitable for light meals.

Owners-managers Maria and Erik Kux-Schlair possess the natural warmth and unflagging enthusiasm characteristic of the best small hotel proprietors.

Daily Rates: Singles €53-61, doubles €77-86. Apartments €50-68 plus cleaning fee. Optional breakfast for apartment guests, €8 per person.

Contact: Hotel Schlair "Zur Alten Mühle," A-4550 Kremsmünster, Franz-Hönig-Strasse 16, tel. +43/7583/5258, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 16/20